St. Vincent to Brunswick Ga

June 2006 

This narrative will cover the trip from St. Vincent to Brunswick GA with an intermediate stop in St. Martin to pick up crew. The time period of the trip was from June 13^th thru June 29, 2006^. This is scheduled to be a fast trip to move the vessel out of the tropical hurricane zone prior to July 1^st, 2006 (insurance company requirement). Joining me on the trip is Jed Sturman (in St. Vincent), Faye Francy, and Barbara Howell (both in St. Martin). Initial routing from St. Vincent is northwest passing by the leeward side of St. Lucia, Martinique, Dominica, and Guadeloupe, then the windward side of Montserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitts before arriving in St. Martin. After a quick stop in St. Martin our planned routing was direct Brunswick, GA. We used a Globalstar Satellite phone for email and communications as well as downloading weather forecasts.

Some Days A Diamond spent the previous 42 months in charter under the management of The Sunsail Company located at Blue Lagoon in St. Vincent, and the Grenadines. The 10 days prior to our departure was busy with yacht survey, correcting survey defects, and planned upgrades. Although the defect list contained about 25 items most of the issues were minor in nature and the employees at Sunsail did a diligent job correcting all items to my satisfaction.

 Additionally, during the 10 day period I added a Raymarine C series navigation/radar suite, installed a HF radio, installed digital battery monitoring system, Sirius Satellite radio receiver, and replaced existing canvas (bimini, sail bag, and head sail cover).

Monday, June 12^th – Everything is coming together

I can’t say enough about the way Sunsail has taken care (general maintenance) of the boat and their positive attitude to ensure that the boat is ready and ship shape before leaving the Sunsail Fleet. Our relationship with Sunsail during the past 42 months has exceeded expectations. Every time we visit St. Vincent we are treated like family. Joachim Fritz (base manager) has done an outstanding job organizing the base and its’ employees into an efficient operation.

I had a very busy day provisioning the boat, paying bills, and attending to last minute details. Jed arrived at St. Vincent airport at 1700. I met Jed at the airport so we could check the boat out of the country for an early morning departure. It was a rainy overcast evening so Jed and I enjoyed a nice fresh nice fish dinner at the hotel restaurant, discuss plans and schedules for the upcoming voyage, and get to bed at a reasonable hour.      

Tuesday, June 13^th - Good Bye St. Vincent

Jed At the Helm

We are awake at dawn, make a quick cup of coffee, and are away by 0530. The weather is overcast with relatively calm seas. It is with mixed emotion that I now leave blue Lagoon harbor after having spent the last 3 years sailing the Grenadines. We have made many friends and have some great memories. I will be back.

We motor sailed for the first 10 miles to get out of the lee side of St. Vincent and find some good wind. At 0730 we turned the engines off and were sailing at 8 to 9 knots in 20 knot winds, we are making great time. At about 1100 the winds were down to 10 to 12 knots and since Barbara and Faye will arrive in St. Martin on Friday we will motor to maintain 6 knots to meet schedule in SXM. I have also arranged to pick up a dinghy, outboard motor, and spinnaker on Friday. Breakfast today was a bowl of cereal about 0900. Our fishing line is out in hopes of a fresh fish dinner. Jed and I both use the sat phone to call home at 1000. At 1220 our position is 12 nm west of St. Lucia and 46 nm from departure point. At this rate will should make at least 160 nm per day. It is a great feeling to be underway.

Wednesday, June 14^th We are making good time

The first day out we made 170 nautical miles 0530 to 0530 (pretty darn good). This afternoon the port engine had an over-temperature alarm and had to be shut down. Since it was quite windy and heavy seas we took no action, remember we have 2 engines. After dark the starboard side of the new sail bag dropped down onto the deck, the upper most line frayed. Unfortunately the worker that installed the new sail bag used the old lines, ugh! We did a temporary tie up to the boom to prevent any damage. All this is going on in 20 to 25 knot winds, in the dark, and beating into 6 to 8 foot breaking seas. Jed and I took turns taking 1 hour cat naps in the salon that night. On two occasions we encounter rain squalls with winds up to 35 knots during the early morning dark hours. At one time with reefed sails we were consistently above 10 knots. About 0500 I started getting a hard drive read error on my laptop, it does not like the marine environment. This is the same machine that I replaced the hard drive on last year, what next. Too rough to cook last night so we eat hot dogs and beans. We are looking forward to turning the corner north of Guadeloupe when we will get some following seas (much smoother ride and better food). Tomorrow morning we should be abeam Montserrat. The Montserrat volcano is still erupting so it should be a neat sight.

Thursday, June 15^th – Repairs underway

Although it was, as they say “on a dark and stormy night” we came through heavy (warm) rain showers and decidedly “lumpy” seas to a glorious sunrise. With relatively flat seas and light winds I went up the mast with a new rope for the sail bag.

The next attempted repair was slightly trickier and more technical in nature. We descended into the starboard hull and checked the belts, the impeller, the hoses and the main in-flow valve. They all checked out clear so we restarted the engine and “****”! There was hardly any cooling water coming out the outflow so we shut the engine down and have a hearty breakfast – bacon and cheese-flavored eggs on toast.

After breakfast I fired up the computer to check email and download weather and its working againJ. I emailed the St. Vincent Sunsail base and asked for any advice on the water pump problem. Within 15 minutes I got a reply from Joachim with a few suggestions and that the Sunsail base in St. Martin would be standing by to help.

Montserrat Volcano

By 0700, the wind began to pick up and soon we had the boat moving north around the northern tip of Guadeloupe towards St. Martin. The fabled island of Antigua was on the starboard side and soon the jagged teeth of “five islands bay” became clearer and soon we would alter course left (port) and take advantage of the tail-wind of about 20 knots. Within a couple of hours we were passing about 7 miles east of Montserrat. It was recommend to us to stay upwind of the volcano to avoid getting ash all over the boat. As you can see the volcano was still issuing-forth steam and strange fumes that looked decidedly nasty. We tuned into the local radio station on Montserrat and heard advertising about this weekends festivities that included the opportunity for all to demonstrate their culinary skills for a bake-sale sell-a-thon, an opportunity to bring out their animals and household pets for a best in class judging and to prepare for the highlight of the weekend – the yearly high summer dance (cost $7 EC, about US$2 per person – geriatrics and infants qualify for a discount.) The residents are not about to let a little thing like an active volcano to disrupt their lives, good for them!

As the daylight was fading we past the uninhabited island outcrop of rock name Redonda. As we skimmed by the profile reminded us of an old man (of the sea) coming out of the water to check on our graceful catamaran moving northwest at about 8 knots. The darkness quickly descended and soon the lights of Nevis became clear of the port beam. After a few more hours of glorious night sailing we passed the sister island to Nevis – St Kitts; and later on the island of Statia.

Sunset over Nevis

We were completely absorbed with the absolute beauty of night sailing – we visited with old friends in the heavenly firmament – Regulus, Deneb (both Leo), Aldabaran (Taurus); and Betelgeuse (Orion). Then like a lighthouse rising from the south-east, our old friend the Moon appeared and within two hours our space in the Caribbean Sea was bathed in warm silvery-orange light and we could see for miles.

Our intent had been to sail directly to St Martin to pick-up our additional crew members (Barbara & Faye), plus some important ships-stores (new dinghy, motor and spinnaker) and re-provision with the essentials of life like beer, wine, rum and toilet-paper. We were making such good time that we would arrive at Oyster Pond (St. Martin) about 0300. The entrance to Oyster Pond is narrow and flanked by shallow reefs on both sides, and the marker buoys are not lighted. During rough seas it can be tricky under daylight conditions and down right dangerous at night. We decided that since we were making such good time we would either divert for a quick stop at Anse de Colombier Bay at St. Barths and get a few hours rest secured to a mooring buoy or slow the boat to plan for a daylight arrival at Oyster Pond. No contest – we altered course a few degrees to starboard and before very much longer we were negotiating the tricky channel that lead past some submerged reefs and rocky outcrops that indicated the entrance to the bay. We joined three other catamarans at anchor and before settling in for the night (at 0145), had a quick nightcap of Chivas Regal and toasted the heavens above and our new friend, the Moon for providing such brilliant illumination to guide us in.

Friday, June 16^th – St. Barths to Oyster Pond SXM

When sleepiong on the boat it seems I am always up at dawn. At 0530 I had the coffee-pot going and by 0615 we had un-hooked from the mooring buoy, unfurled the headsail, and heading north-west across the twelve or so miles to Oyster Pond (the Sunsail base). By 0830 we had sighted the three red-markers that indicate the safe channel into the harbor on the French side of the island.

Broken impeller peices

Soon after 0900 we were safe and sound at the dock having replenished the diesel and topped-off the potable water tanks. The Sunsail technical crew was awaiting our arrival and immediately set to work to find the engine cooling problem. By afternoon the culprit found, some small pieces of a former rubber impeller were found blocking the cooling hose that goes through the refrigerator compressor cooling unit and that blocked the engine coolant water to flow. Problem solved, again a big thanks to Sunsail.

True to their word, a supply of merchant traders appeared with their respective wares – a dinghy, outboard engine and a fine looking spinnaker complete with a “sock”. Time now for the chores of sailing – trash dumping, doing laundry and cleaning the boat. Before long we were heading for the famous Oyster Pond  “Dinghy Bar” to see a brief episode of “World-Cup Fever” and sample the delights of the resident chef – I had fresh mussels from Canada, salad, and French fries (not freedom fries or other such name), and Jed had a very rare tuna steak with salad and fries – really good food. Jed remaked it was one of the best pieces of Tuna he has ever experienced.

Jed and I quickly showered, rented a car, and raced (if you could call it that in St. Martin) to the airport. We called Faye on her cell phone and asked her to wait at the arrival gate and find Barbara. Faye and Barb had never met but we knew how resourceful Faye could be so we gave Faye Barb’s description as..."if you know Tom you will recognize Barb". As timing would have it Faye connected with Barb and within minutes we pulled up to the airport curb and just needed to honk the horn. The crew is complete.

The next legality was to for Jed and I to actually check into St Martin and then to check the four of ous out for Saturday morning departure. For this we had to visit the local police station and complete the numerous forms and pay the princely sum of $12.30 (US) for us all – what a bargain because if you leave from the airport you pay $35 US perperson. That formality out of the way we could get down to the fun part of the day – supplementing our provisions for the next eight-days of sailing back to the US. Let’s see – beer, wine, juice, chocolate, fruits, bacon, drinking water, beer, cheese, fresh French bread, beer, etc. Some $390 US lighter we came out of the super-market with a HUGE two carts of “necessary” supplies. Our little Toyota Corolla with 4 passengers, 3 suitcases and almost $400 worth of groceries was quite a sight.

Back to the boat in time to unload and re-load the boat in daylight and get the new crew settled into their quarters, take a guided tour of the boat including the man-overboard procedures and as the sun began to set behind the high hills of the cozy little harbor we made another pilgrimage to the “Dinghy Bar” for G&Ts (Gin & Tonic) and four servings of their famous and oh so tasty “ribs”. We ate the Caribbean way and some two hours later we returned to the boat for a well deserved nights sleep.

Saturday, June 17^th – The next leg begins

Barbara up the mast

Early to bed, early to rise, makes Tom a happy Captain. At 0530 everyone reported for duty had either coffee or tea and got prepared to get underway. By 0615, we had the main-sail up and were motor-sailing out of the choppy channel, once more into the Caribbean Sea, this time destination Brunswick GA, the future port-city of “Some Days a Diamond”.

The seas and wind were quite lively and before too long a big “twang” and this time the starboard rope holding the main-sail bag parted and down came the bag – crash. Not again Tom was heard to mutter! He did say other unprintable “things” but due to the sensitivity of junior readers or those with a tender stomach, we’ll leave it at that.

A quick detour into Grand Bay at Philipsburg Harbor and very soon Barbara was kitted-out in very becoming bright yellow “bosun’s chair” before being hoisted up the mast to re-attach the new rope for the sail-bag. Wow, like a veritable little monkey up she went and STOP to pose for the very necessary “Kodak Moment” before descending again to the deck. Up anchor and we are again underway.

Ah, peace and quiet with only the whistle of the wind to accompany us on our merry way when “brum-brum and hello” – we had a surprising visit from the Dutch Coastguard in one of their snazzy assault craft, compete with four sinister-looking “action me”. “Have you and ERIRB on board”? No says Captain Tom, why do you ask? “Because an emergency beacon (EPIRB) has just gone off in your location”, replied the chief coasty. Not-guilty pleads Captain Tom and after repeated cell-phone and radio call between their boat and their headquarters they said we were “good to go”. Barbara suggested they were just checking on our IN/OUT clearance and Faye was more inclined to believe they came to say goodbye to all the wine and liquor sadly leaving their small island. With the fun over, we resumed course and that brings us to now, about lunchtime on Saturday so we’ll do our nautical duty and begin consuming the mountain of food and drink we have on board. Until next time – “be well, do good work and keep in touch”!

For a nice morning snack we are eating fresh baguettes, fancy French butter, and home made guava jam (oh the French know how to eat). Early afternoon we are joined by a pod of about 25 Dolphin. The Pod stays with us for literally 4 hours continually jumping and flipping around the front and sides of the boat. When we change course they change course. This is nature’s entertainment at its best.

Dolphins at Play

Sunday, June 18^th - Happy Fathers Day.

Wind and seas are good. I wish I could say the same for the fishing. Our first and only catch was a seagull that got tangled in one of the lines (doesn’t really taste like chicken), just kidding. Lucky for us, and the bird, we were able to haul him/her to the boat and untangle the mess, and thankfully no blood on the rescued or rescuer. The bird took off, although somewhat dazed and was last seen flying low over the horizon.

After diner we decide to divid up the night into 3 hour watches. Jed and Faye take the 9 to mid, and 3 to 6. Barb and I take mid to 3. The wind is somewhat fluky and we motor sail most of the night. We are trying to keep boat speed at a rate of making 150 nautical miles per day to make a schedule. So far so good, as we made our 150 nm 0800 to 0800. We motor with only one engine when necessary and burn less than 2 liters per hour. Our fuel capacity is 400 liters.

Our routing will take us direct from St. Martin to the north end of Eleuthera in the northern Bahamas. We are currently about 60 miles north of Puerto Rico and rocking along at 7 knots. On schedule and as they say in the Caribbean Islands, no matter where you are or what time it is, “on time”.

Monday, June 19^th - Ocean Passage making mode.

Two hundred miles and a day and a half into our voyage and all are in the “passage making mode”. It is kind of a magical thing that happens to sailors on a long voyage. The first and last days of any long passage are generally consumed with getting familiar with your surroundings, concerned about what is emotionally left behind, or ahead, thoughts about loved ones, and worry about making schedules. Once you realize where you are, in the middle of an expansive ocean, and it’s where you will be for the next week or two all that stuff and anxiety gets left behind. There is lots of time for contemplating and thinking. It also seems that love for those special ones intensifies and grows. It is very a peaceful period where you actually feel one with the ocean, guess that’s why so many sailors refer to her as “mother Ocean”, she is watching over and taking care of us. This is a serenity that is easily experienced and very hard to convey. Barb and Faye are sunbathing on the front deck, Jed is sacked out from last nights watch, and me just jotting down some notes. AC DC, Van Halen, Pink Floyd, etc are flowing and spreading musical vibes throughout the boat, ah, harmony with the Universe.

Another Beautiful Day

We’ve had a good day making progress towards Eleuthera. From there we have decided to turn west and catch a 1 knot current that leads to the express lane of the Gulf Stream. The Gulf Stream off the coast of Florida can usually be counted upon to add anywhere from 2 to 3 knots of north current to our track. Also that routing gives us a lot of destination options. If we are running late we can drop off and pick up at various locations along the east coast.

For tonight’s watches we have decided to try 4 hour shifts, 10 to 2 and 2 to 6, that way each team has only one watch.

Barb brought a nice bottle of Perrier Joulet Champaign to celebrate Fathers Day. After drinks and appetizers diner will be served late this evening. The suggested menu is boneless chicken served in a lemon pepper asparagus sauce with long grain wide rice and green beans. Surviving as sea can be very tough, oh well.

To rig for night running we trim the mainsail with one reef and depending on the weather assessment may take a reef on the head sail. I use the philosophy of reefing early and reef often. The worst time to try and trim sails is during high wind conditions and it is always easier to let sails out than take them in. My reefing guides are full sails to 20 knots, first reef good to 25 to 30, and second to 35 knots. Above 35 knots take down the main and go with some a small portion of head sail and ride where the wind takes you.

The first watch was spent dodging thunderstorms. This is when the radar sure comes in handy. We have a 24 mile range on the radar that helps track storms and give us early detection and opportunity to properly rig the sails for potential high winds. Jed and Faye skillfully dodge several storms and at times during gusts drive the boat at a consistent 11.5 knots. For you sailors out there you know we were “smoking”. It is now 0430 and Barb and I are on the 2 to 6. Most of the storms have abated and we are cruising along at 6.5 knots. All is well.

On a sad note, Jed and Celia are going through a very sad time as Sunday their faithful companion Shade a beautiful Golden Retriever, has passed on. After 14 years of faithful service Shade’s work is done. I recently read an article about why dogs don’t live as long as people. A 8 year old boy explained that we are all put on earth to learn to love and that dogs learn and show unconditional love so quick they don’t need to be here as long as people. Our hearts are very sad. Jed, Celia, the Sturman family, and Shade are in our hearts and prayers.

Barb, Faye, & Jed

Tuesday, June 20^th - A Toast to King Neptune

Tuesday, June 20, 2006 0900 an official toast to King Neptune. How foolish of me for not recognizing his power earlier in the voyage. We mixed up Pineapple, coco loco, and fine Cuban Rum and the last bit of ice for a delicious morning concoction (for future reference I believe we will name this… what, oh maybe, a pina colada, yup that’s a good name). Let it also be known that Neptune got the largest portion, best glass, and the most ice. The ritual is in hopes of his favor with more favorable winds (both direction and speed). Jed and I really got spoiled with our 170 nm days sailing up from St. Vincent.

Before our morning ceremony all hands put the ship in proper order from the heads to the decks, even laundry (we presently look like a yard sale). This new activity of cleanliness was inspired by watching Faye tidy the galley and salon. Unfortunately for the crew the captain issued orders to tidy up individual cabins (haven’t told Barb to do that in 25 years). We are looking good, now for some speed. Yesterday we only made 130 nm towards destination.

Monday was a slow and mellow day. After the night’s 2 to 6 watch we fooled around with the spinnaker, a first for me. Three tries later our big red and white large head sail is flying off the starboard side. With the spinnaker the boat has a very graceful and easy motion that rocks you to sleep, so relaxing, reading, sleeping, and sunbathing were the order of the day. There was not very much wind and even with the big sail we were only averaging 5 to 6 knots, unfortunately not in the most favorable direction.

About 1000 we enjoyed a big breakfast of cheese scrambled eggs, lots of bacon, and toasted baguettes with guava jam. Later no one was interested in lunch, so we just snacked until diner. The night’s diner surprise was tacos. Faye decided to sleep through dinner and eat her meal on the 0200 to 0600 watch (good way to pass the time). Like at home leftovers taste great after midnight, even at sea.

Wednesday, June 21^st. – Slow Going

It was very dark last night with no moon until 0200 and several isolated showers. The wind ranged from light to 25 knots in squalls.

For planning purposes we are looking at initial US landfall to be Cape Canaveral for check-in with Customs & Immigration and drop crew off for Sunday airline connections. Our proposed routing will take us to the north end of Eleuthera then west to just south of West End Grand Bahama, then direct to the Cape. Mileage for this routing will be 1150nm, we are looking forward to the half way point tomorrow.

Our humble sacrifice to King Neptune seems to be working (must be careful not to jinx anything here). Last night we had good wind and following seas and were able to make a pretty consistent 7 to 8 knots. After a nice diner of Linguini with calm sauce, lettuce and tomato salad, and topped off with freshly baked brownies. We have decided to try 5 hour watches and Faye and Jed take the 9 to 2 watch. About midnight during my pre-watch nap I noticed boat noises indicating fast speed (very good). While I was up we tacked (changed course) the boat to compensate for driftage away from course. Since the wind is being persistent and stays directly behind us we are tacking or jibing back and forth to maintain good speed. Content that we have an excellent crew and everything is in order it is back to bed for 2 more hours until 0200. Barb and I took the 2 to 7 watch. Last night both watches were uneventful and made good distance.

It is now official we will be making first port of entry Cape Canaveral. I would very much like to make landfall by Saturday night or early Sunday morning so Faye and Jed can make their flights home (both have serious commitments for Monday). Once back in the States I am pretty flexible about getting the boat to Brunswick. I have talked with Carol about meeting me in Cape Canaveral and traveling with the boat up to Brunswick.

Tom, Faye, & Barb

Today we will celebrate our half way mark with a humble offering to Neptune. Faye, being a trained chemist, has whipped up a concoction of various fruit juices, guava liqueur and Cuban rum that we hope satisfies the King.

This morning we topped off our fuel tanks with diesel fuel we are carrying in Jerry Cans. Our thrifty little engines only require one gallon for 2.7 hours of operation (wish my car could do that). It has taken us 100 hours to make the half way point. We still have enough fuel on board to motor another 100 hours.

Today is another beautiful day. We have Southeast winds between 15 to 20 knots and clear skies. Our present position is 75 miles north of the Caicos Islands. Our heading is 305 degrees and speed 8 knots occasionally up to 10 knots when surfing down the waves. The ocean swells are about 10 to 12 feet but spaced 50 to 75 yards apart making it a very comfortable ride. Barb is napping, Jed and Faye are on the front deck grabbing some rays, and I typing away and answering emails.

We have not had any luck with the fishing. We were joined by a small pod of dolphins again today. It is always very entertaining to watch them circle the boat with jumps and playful smiles. I am not sure who is having more fun, us or the dolphins (they seem to love to show off).

Thursday 22^nd - Joe verses the Volcano

Yesterday was a nice day, fair wind and seas. The crew is getting excited with visions of 30 minute hot soapy showers and baths Saturday night on dry land. At 1900 the skies are darkening and there is a lot of lightning on the northwestern horizon (guess what direction we are traveling). It is 9:00pm and Barbara and I have the 9 to 2 watch. Checking the radar shows we are in for a bumpy ride. It is dark and thunderstorms are building all around us. We reef both the main and headsail in preparation for a little blow (ha). Then the air temperature suddenly drops 15 degrees and the hair on your body starts standing straight up you kind of know this is NOT a good thing. Well it is like to being in a washing machine on spin cycle, oh and throw in a 110v electric cord for extra spice. For 3 hours we were in the middle of a building low pressure trough. It felt like being caught in some type of Twilight Zone, the weather continued to move and expand in every direction. The lightning put on a spectacular show with the thunder and lightning happening almost simultaneously, thankfully avoided striking our precious craft. The wind continuously swirled from every direction. Not much sleep for Faye and Jed. Fortunately the trough spit us out about 0130 as if saying “had enough”?. Yes, yes, yes we all respond.

Between 0130 and 0500 we come close to several large tankers making their way to northern destinations. Most of these guys will happily engage in conversations with us. The closest encounter was 2 miles and you can appreciate how big and fast they move. Since our little sailboat is small and made of fiberglass it does not present a very good radar image to these big guys so we always try to make radio contact and let them know we are here.

Sunrise over calm seas

After our night of high adventure we wake up to bright skies and calm seas, is this the same sea? We are presently motoring with both engines and lucky to make 5 knots. We are 197 miles from Spanish Wells (north end of Eleuthera) and our Saturday night arrival at Cape Canaveral is looking doubtful. Hopefully the wind will pick up a couple of more knots and we can fly the spinnaker

For breakfast we share pancakes, bacon, and Faye’s special concoction from yesterday. Barb is now on the front deck reading Jimmy Buffets new book, A Salty Piece of Land, Jed is in the aft stateroom catching up on some much needed zzzzz’s, and Faye is resting in her stateroom reading. It’s hot without much wind. Maybe a good day for a fish?

Friday 23^rd - Easy come easy go

After being kicked around by that low pressure trough the night before it was nice to have an easier day, too bad it was too easy as far as the wind was concerned. We motor sailed all day with light and variable winds and calm seas. It is necessary to use both engines to make headway against an unfavorable current. Our forward progress toward Spanish Wells was 114 nm. Unfortunately for us there is another tropical low pressure trough 200 miles north of our position that have wind and sea conditions remaining unchanged for the next couple of days. We will probably duck into Freeport or West End Grand Bahama to top off the fuel tanks.

Tropical Depression just north of us

Although these light wind days can be frustrating for sailors they are also a day of rest and reflection. Yesterday was very mellow. We all caught up on reading and much needed sleep. Jed and I have been at this for the last ten days and have covered more than 1100 nm. Since we picked up Barbara and Faye the crew has sailed 800 nm and we still have 350 nm to go. I expect by tomorrow noon to have a good ETA for Florida.

Last night was a dark moonless night and on the 2 to 7 watch Barb and I got a magnificent view of the Milky Way. Carl Sagan was definitely right when he exclaimed “billions and billions of Stars”. You rarely get this kind of view of the galaxy living near populated land masses. Being out here at night (or day for that matter) certainly has a way of putting humanity in its place. We are a tiny part of a gigantic universe.

The Last 48 Hours – Jed’s perspective

The good ship “Some Days a Diamond” continues to motor-sail northwest on its journey home. Unfortunately the wind has gone on vacation and we are being propelled at 4.7 knots by Mother Yanmar and she’s doing well sipping diesel fuel at the rate of just less than half a gallon per hour so it’s touch and go – can we make it on what we have in reserve cans or do we need to divert into an island port and top off the tanks. If we do that, we can also replenish our depleted stocks of ice and beer.

We are also doing the “what if” evaluating our options for eventual landfall somewhere on the US mainland. Faye and Jed have commitments for Monday afternoon and Barbara on Tuesday so at present we’re evaluating the most expeditious point on land to declare as our port of entry. So far we’ve changed from Brunswick GA to Port Canaveral FL, however as the winds have gradually diminished, our new option appear to be West Palm Beach or Fort Pierce; depending on wind, tide and engine power.

Our route over the last 48 hours has taken us abeam Samana Cay and San Salvador which we saw “flashing away” to our port side. It is quite re-assuring to know that somewhere on the port side is habitation and other human beings doing whatever they do in these remote outposts of the Caribbean. Last night we eased our way past Cat Island and at this exact time (mid-day on the 23rd) we are just approaching the southern extremity of Eluthera Island and our turning west waypoint of Spanish Wells. Our rough ETA abeam Spanish Wells is about 3 am on Saturday morning and if the chart prediction of tide and current can be believed we should get some “assistance” as we take on a more westerly track to clear Grand Bahama and join the fabled Gulf Stream for our final leg into the home-waters of the US. Captain Tom has already contacted “Customs” on the satellite phone and alerted them of our impending arrival albeit our ETA is very “iffy”. No doubt this will trigger a succession of follow-up actions and I’m sure we can expect a visit from our friendly US Coast Guard at some point as we enter the ADIZ about 50 miles east of the Florida coastline. It will be interesting to observe their dimenna - will it be welcoming and warm, or suspicious and confrontational. Some past reports in Cruising World have indicated a heightened sense of anxiety and suspicion that all recreational sailors somehow are “upto something” – let’s hope not.

On reflection, sailing really does bring out the best in individuals and provides a model of what society could be whether that’s the family unit, the work group, the community or indeed the nation. For example the crew has to differentiate between being in the collective (the crew) and retaining their individual needs and desires. This demands a level of maturity that can accommodate change and at the same time take into consideration what is best for the prevailing situation and the crew as a whole. This dimension can be complicated during night watches when half the crew is below asleep in their bunks and are totally dependent on the night-crew to do the “right thing”. This translates to integrity and decisiveness coupled with a reasonable degree of sailing skill and experience.

Whenever the weather conditions deteriorate the pressure to make the right decision at the right time sometimes takes courage and a commitment that whatever actions are taken will get the good ship out of the current situation and into a better one.

Under the leadership of Captain Tom I consider it safe to say that so-far we are working well as a crew – we stay as safe as we can within our sphere of control (which is severely limited during inclement weather), and we are certainly having fun. On those night watches the time seems to gallop by and the “magic of the night” takes over. The moonlight casts a silver sheen over the black ocean and the night sky is occasionally punctuated by laser-light shows as heat lightening provides instant glimpses of the surrounding clouds. If we are unlucky (as Tom and Barb were two nights ago) fork lightening issues forth from angry cumulus nimbus clouds and claps of thunder rend the air. At such times, we realize just how insignificant man really is in the grand scheme of things.

Mystery fish

OK, enough of this maritime home-spun philosophy and back to reality. A Carnival cruise liner is now on our port quarter and steaming fast for the mainland to return their passengers to the “pleasures” of daily life while we have at-least another three days of sailing bliss ahead of us. The food and drink are holding up well and we’ve experience many “interesting” dishes and heard many stories of our varied pasts. The larder has just been topped-up by Barbara, the intrepid fisher-lady – she has just caught a fish of indeterminate lineage (White Tuna) but probably weighting about 4-5 pounds. With the “flash” of the filleting knife Captain Tom has now produced two respectable fillets which we’ll share for supper this evening.

Saturday, June 24^th - Captain Tom and “The Pirates of the Caribbean”

Last night was a beautiful night, flat calm seas, bright stars, another great view of the Milky Way and no wind. We have seen more large ship traffic in the last 6 hours than on the whole trip; both watches are continually on lookout and dodging the big guys.

We are still motoring on both engines so now it becomes necessary to plan a fuel stop. It looks like Freeport will be the place, we read in the cruising guide that the marina is open from 0700 to 2300 and we think we can get in and out before they close tonight.

Mr. Lightbourne

1100 Good news Jed and Barb discover a small town (Sandy Point) marina on the extreme south end of Abaco. We give the Lightbourne Marina a call on channel 16 and surprise he answers and yes he has diesel fuel. The marina is only 8 miles away and should make a quick in and out. We turn 30 degrees starboard and head for the tiny speck of land. As we get close we gently motor in towards the docks bumping over a couple of hundred yards of sand bottom. Once we tie up Jed and I start taking on fuel, water, and ice while Barbara and Faye wonder into the small town for some beer. The owner of the Marina is a 75 year old gentleman named Mr. Lightbourne. In the early 1950’s he worked for Senator Byrd, small world.

Faye’s cell phone works here so everyone is happily checking in with loved ones at home. We all enjoy the stop with a swim. We are about ready to leave when Barbara negotiates with a local conch fisherman for 6 conchs. We are having cracked conch for diner tonight, yum.

Lightbourne Marina, just a dock out from the beach

The crew is happy again.

The little marina is only about 6 miles away from Gorda Cay, the Bahamas island home of the Disney Cruise Line. As we are passing by the island the stage crew is towing in the Flying Dutchman, of Pirates of the Caribbean fame. This is a real treat and we circle the ship to within 100 feet. (kewl). Jed is considering calling the pirate ship and telling them “prepare to be boarded, we will settle for nothing less than 8 frozen pina coladas and lobster for our booty”. Instead he calls the Disney Ship and gets a favorable weather forecast for tomorrow – winds easterly 10 -15, sea state 3 to 5 feet.

The Famous Flying Dutchman

As we settle down to motoring into the long swells, we are exactly 203 nautical miles from Cape Canaveral – terra-firma, possibly a succulent steak, a cool gin and tonic and maybe a bed that doesn’t rock around under its own inertia. Everything depends on the fickle factor called “the wind”. If it pans out and we get an easterly at 15 knots, and if the Gulf Stream can provide us a boost of about 3 knots (current); we could make good time and get in sometime late tomorrow or very early on Monday morning.

A Sunday arrival would be fantastic, a Monday morning arrival will be so-so but will mean a mad dash to the nearest airport (probably Orlando) and hopping the earliest flights to the three destinations, Seattle WA (Faye), Cincinnati (Barb) and Washing ton DC (Jed).

Carol has confirmed that she will meet me in Cape Canaveral and will bring Chuck and Kathleen Doucette (friends from Plantation Bay) for the tip to Brunswick. I am looking forward to seeing Carol and having her  re-united with our “pride and joy” – Some Days a Diamond.

Home again home again. 25 June 2006, 8:00 PM 2752/8006

We have motor sailed for the past 24 hours and are making good time. Both day and night have provided us with many challenges in techniques for thunder storm avoidance. The crew and “Some Days A Diamond” have performed in a stellar manner. After turning the corner around Freeport we calculated that it could be possible to check into the US south of Cape Canaveral giving Jed the opportunity to make it home for his daughter’s graduation from the Police Academy. Additionally, Faye could make her Monday meeting in Seattle. It’s off to the races, we have a deadline of 6:00 PM to get to customs before they close. The closest place to aim for is St. Lucie and get a car and drive to Fort Pierce for check in.

I contact my brother Ollie for information on Port St. Lucie and the best marinas for us. Ollie quickly responds and volunteers to drive us to Stuart for customs. It looks like our plan is going to work. As we are approaching the Florida Coast our cell phones start picking up those long lost signals. Everyone is buzzing around calling home and making airline reservations. There is that ever expected excitement as the trip is drawing to a close. I call the marina to make a reservation and am informed they are full. Oh NO! I pleadingly explain our situation and ask for some help or recommendations. The kind lady offers, don’t worry, the marina next door has customs available until 7 tonight (no drive necessary). This is very kewl, as it makes a quick drop off for Jed and Faye as Barb and I are expected in Cape Canaveral (80 miles) later tonight to meet Carol, Chuck, Kathy, and Fancy (they are being hosted by our good friends Brian and Louise Nelsen on Merritt Island).

Entrance to Port St. Lucie

Ollie is there to meet us at the Sailfish Marina. We quickly clear customs have a fast cocktail refuel, and by 4:00 pm Barb and I are off. A big thanks to Ollie for his help (family’s GREAT).

By 6:00pm Barb and I are about 10 miles off shore on the edge of the Gulf Stream making 7 to 8 knots and looking for an arrival at the Cape at 4 to 5 AM. Barb has a 1010 departure from Orlando.

Brunswick Landing Marina

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